1977 Datsun 280Z
#1
1977 Datsun 280Z
Hey all,
Saw this car tonight and thought it looked pretty cool. Anybody know a good source to find out information out this car? I've been thinking about slowing downt he work on the P5 and starting on an older car.. I really like the style of this Datsun.
Any help appreciated.
thanks,
Dave
Saw this car tonight and thought it looked pretty cool. Anybody know a good source to find out information out this car? I've been thinking about slowing downt he work on the P5 and starting on an older car.. I really like the style of this Datsun.
Any help appreciated.
thanks,
Dave
#2
Google it. Those things have had a cult-like following for more than 30 years. You'll probably get more hits than you know what to do with.
All I know about 'em is that they're an inline six, RWD, they sound great and look really sweet. Not much help, I guess.
All I know about 'em is that they're an inline six, RWD, they sound great and look really sweet. Not much help, I guess.
#3
thanks.. I did google it but had trouble finding a decent page with specs. The biggest Datsun page seemed to have a lot of dead links... Maybe I'll stop by tomorrow and take it out for a cruise..
#5
The No. 1 thing you need to do is inspect the car thoroughly for rust and body integrity (see what I have to say about it in this thread). 280Z's are NOTORIOUS rusters, especially in places with road salt and rainy climates, such as Nova Scotia. However, the later cars are often better than the earlier 240Z's because they were often sold with additional rustproofing.
The first place to inspect is underneath the battery at the rear driver's side corner of the engine compartment; dripping battery acid will eat away at the framerail, and creates the risk of fuel leaks because the fuel lines run along the frame here. Most non-restored Z's will have some minor surface rust here, but if this area has serious rust holes, WALK AWAY. Next places to inspect are (roughly in order) the floorboards, the spare tire well, the panel along the rear edge of the hatch opening, the rain gutters along the roof, the edges of the wheelwell openings (esp. in the rear), and the bottom edge of the hatch glass. While you're at it, look for wreck damage; early Z's are quite flexible, and a good hit will often "tweak" the frame and permanently make the car pull to one side and/or handle poorly.
The basic point is that body integrity is Priority No. 1 when looking at old Z-cars. The mechanicals are tough and quite cheap and easy to fix. The bodies are prone to damage and parts are getting scarce.
Good luck!
The first place to inspect is underneath the battery at the rear driver's side corner of the engine compartment; dripping battery acid will eat away at the framerail, and creates the risk of fuel leaks because the fuel lines run along the frame here. Most non-restored Z's will have some minor surface rust here, but if this area has serious rust holes, WALK AWAY. Next places to inspect are (roughly in order) the floorboards, the spare tire well, the panel along the rear edge of the hatch opening, the rain gutters along the roof, the edges of the wheelwell openings (esp. in the rear), and the bottom edge of the hatch glass. While you're at it, look for wreck damage; early Z's are quite flexible, and a good hit will often "tweak" the frame and permanently make the car pull to one side and/or handle poorly.
The basic point is that body integrity is Priority No. 1 when looking at old Z-cars. The mechanicals are tough and quite cheap and easy to fix. The bodies are prone to damage and parts are getting scarce.
Good luck!
#6
Originally posted by SlopPerformance
if your into it, its a crazy *** drift car.
if your into it, its a crazy *** drift car.
#7
yea i follow what your saying but i guess you gotta be into the drift scene to get it. theres dudes in japan beating the **** out of Silvas and is 300s and just dont care. If i got that car it would be strickly drift. I mean the Z car is a drift machine and i would only own one for that purpose.
#8
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