I have a brand new NGK AFX Wideband Gauge/sensor for sale. This is a very nice unit that has never been installed but has been taken out of the packaging several times. I will re-box in a smaller package to save on shipping but it is 100% un-used and in mint condition.

These units sell for $300-315 + shipping online. I'm offering this one at $225shipped OBO. Just looking to move it. First come first serve.


http://www.ngk.com/afx/default.asp?KID=3157

 

How does this compare to an AEM Uego or an Innovate WB? Could be very interested...I'm doing some research right now...
BTW, would it fit in the little compartment under the fog dimmer/coin holder thing on the lower left side of a Protege dash?

 

I'm not 100% sure as I don't have a protege to test it on anymore but I know it fits PERFECTLY in the ashtray slot on my MS6. I'm sure the tilt down pocket on the protege could be used with very minor modifications.

This is a much nicer wideband than the AEM Uego in my opinion. The main reason is the large, bright LCD digital display that makes it super easy to read even in bright sunlight (or blinding snows of canada). When powered off it looks invisible / blacked out. Gauges are nice but LCD displays are nicer (in my book.)

 

It fits perfectly in the ashtray on the P5 --it's what I ahve there.

It should fit in that pocket under the foglight switch as well, but you'd have to drill a hole in it to get the big wiring bundle through.

I'll dig up a pic

look very closely:


it's a really nice wideband unit. who needs a needle when what matters in the number?

plus it has 0-5v output so you could hook it up to a gauge (a gauge that accepts wideband input) or to a datalogger

here's the full 8 megapixel version of that (not auto-rotated though):
http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=529553138&size=o

it's mounted there with just the velcro strip that it comes with from NGK. I planned on making it more permanent, but only when you get up close do you still see the metal track for the ashtray there. It sits securely, no rattling, and I've had it there for a year next month

 

Well this would actually save me money by NOT having to buy a gauge pod, or what I really wanted: a modified gauge surround...
The only thing that sucks is that it probably wouldn't be good to have the thing plugged in all the time seeing as the O2 sensor would have to be within 10" of the exhaust port seeing as I have a shorty header and have no plans of either gutting my precat or going full header anytime soon...any comments on that?

 

Get a bung welded into your exhaust.

Wait.. nvm I see your setup now.. shorty, then stock precat.. yeah my O2 sensor is on my downpipe after the turbo, like 6" before the midpipe so before my cat.

hmm *does some research*

Ok it looks like you could adjust for it (there's an adjustment **** on the back of the unit) --so far the consensus seems to be 0.5 difference, but that's coming from a corvette Z06 forum :P

though I don't agree with his "power adders need a bit more fuel".. if they did need that extra fuel, you wouldn't be so rich :P

 

So the consensus is to add .5 after a precat eh? how reliable would that really be compared to our precats? Not sure I'd rely on that myself...of course I do have the option of just plugging the bung once my tuning is complete, but then the display just sits there doing nothing...no fun in that. Any more info on this precat thing? I usually do my homework, but I really have no idea where to start on this one...

 

That info was for.. I think a high flow primary cat. I dunno if the car in question (corvette Z06) even has a pre-cat..

The **** is right on the back of the display unit for adjustment so you can adjust it to -0.5 (to make it display more rich) whenever. You would really need to somehow probe the air/fuel ratio before and after the precat to know what number to use yourself, which would require.. having a bung welded onto your shorty header and a bung welded after the precat, hook the wideband up after the precat, plug the bung before the pre-cat (the NGK actually comes with a bung and a plug for a bung in the box), then go to a dyno tuning place that has a wideband (one that screws in, not a tailpipe probe) and compare numbers.

Or if you can only find a place with a tailpipe probe, plug the post-precat bung and temporarily install your wideband sensor in the upper bung, and again compare numbers.

 

gut the precat, install an MIL eliminator and put the bung on the side of the hollow pre-cat.


performance gain AND monitoring.

 

As much as I would love to gut it (had I wanted to do that, I would have bought a full header), our province is fairly stringent on emissions, and I have a soft spot for the environment (ya I know...kinda contrary to the whole tuning scene, but that's just me). The wideband is honestly an investment in helping me improve my mileage, with the massive bonus of helping me increase power with the help of the piggy-back I bought recently (that's what I tell my gf anyway, it's actually the other way around ). Anyway, just trying to do what makes the most sense...

I'll have to ask that question around and see, if only to save the cost/effort of having to weld 2 bungs...Still very interested, just need to do a little more research on this.

 

Getting a bung welded on is cheap. I got my stainless oil pan bung tig welded inside AND outside for like $25

 

Ya but the pain of taking out the exhaust to get it welded, and then all the dyno tuning just to check the difference in reading...bah! I guess I'm trying to be economically conscious about how I spend my money after doing a tally of how much I've spent on this car in the last 6 months; it's not pretty!

Stupid environmental me...hehehe. Still searching at my end

BTW, I should ask; would you be willing to ship to Canada? I would like to have it shipped via USPS Priority if you don't mind "lying" about it's value on the customs form...(saves on duty/taxes...)

 

Item received and looks mint!

Thanks a lot